FACE Excellence 25

Sarah Ajayi, from Manchester Metropolitan University reflects upon her final year and her collection that earned her both the FACE Excellence Prize AND the Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award.

“I didn't just learn technical and creative skills, I discovered resilience. I realised I’m stronger than I thought. I’m really happy about that.”

“My final year project is titled the Queens of the Market, it honours the strength, elegance, and identity of African market women, women who navigate daily life wrapped in layered fabrics, balancing goods on their heads with effortless grace. The collection is about cultural pride. It reflects how these women carry more than just products they carry history, tradition, and survival, turning the everyday into something extraordinary. Using natural raffia, Adire textiles and inspired by the Bolga baskets of Ghana, I wanted to translate the texture and energy of the market into a high-fashion language.

 “My final year project is titled the Queens of the Market, it honours the strength, elegance, and identity of African market women.”

But it wasn’t smooth sailing. I had been working with traditional pattern blocks for weeks with no result. The first fitting was fast approaching, and I had nothing to show. I was scared. In my head, I kept repeating, ‘This isn’t working. I’m in trouble.’

Then, one day, I bought a bunch of plantains. I peeled the skin off and started experimenting offsetting each peel and stitching them back together. That was the breakthrough. The form resembled the exact contours of the baskets I was trying to emulate. In that moment, I knew I had found the blueprint for my pattern cutting.

“In that moment, I knew I had found the blueprint for my pattern cutting.”

But the struggles didn’t stop there. I cried a lot trying to translate those organic peel shapes into workable patterns for garment construction. I chose to zig-zag stitch my seams, something I had never done before, to reduce seam bulk and make the garments reversible. It was so hard. I kept asking myself, ‘Why am I doing this to myself?’

But the zigzag stitch had meaning. It mirrored an Adire motif that symbolises crossroads — a code for journey, resilience, and movement. These are the exact themes that shape the lives of African market women. I had to do it.

I’d sneak off to the university bathrooms when things got difficult and call my mum, crying, telling her it wasn’t working. But she never let me quit. She understood the pain, but she also knew I couldn’t take the easy route. She’d say, ‘You have to make it work. You’ve started it, you must finish it.’

I can’t put into words how grateful I am to her and to the staff of Manchester Fashion Institute, especially Adrian Thornton, my senior lecturer in pattern cutting. He was a support system. When I couldn’t see a way forward, he did. He’d say, ‘Keep pushing. You’re getting there. It’s going to be perfect. You’ll be proud.’

“When I stood before the FACE judging panel, I went with the mindset of sharing my story. ”

When I stood before the FACE judging panel, I went with the mindset of sharing my story. This collection is my love letter to African women especially market women. I wanted them to see the passion in every stitch. One of the judges, Joy Julius, the first-ever FACE Excellence Winner, has inspired me since 2022 — even shaping my first-year project. Standing in front of her and the other judges was a full-circle moment. I came with a full heart and left empty because I gave it everything.

As a Nigerian, I want to continue highlighting Black and Brown craftsmanship — allowing people to experience the beauty of my culture and proving that excellence can come from anywhere. That, to me, is powerful.

In the future, I’d love to work with designers like Labrum and Iman Ayissi. One day I’d love to have my own brand but right now I’m really overwhelmed and soaking in everything. Winning the GFW Gold was very emotional.

“Don’t give up. You are stronger than you think.”

I’d like to say to other creatives…Don’t give up. You are stronger than you think. Maybe you’re gonna cry with frustration and not have a social life in your final year, but don’t settle for less. You’ve got this.

 

Caryn Franklin

FACE is a mixed academic group lobbying for race equality

http://www.weareface.uk
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FACE Excellence Finalists 2025