Seeking new talent
Having worked for brands such as Burberry and Selfridges, brand and marketing specialist Daniel Peters applies knowledge and understanding of contextual and contemporary influences within the creatives industries. In conversation with FACE member Jason Forrest, Daniel spoke at our recent FACE Presents, Community event.
Featured in Grazia, Drapers, Business Matters and RTE Newspaper, the Fashion Minority Report, brainchild of brand and marketing specialist Daniel Peters, uses a team of diverse experts to work with clients in a structured and phased way to apply rigour and methodology in pursuit of race equality in the workplace.
Examining internal culture & process, analysing the results to create tailormade solutions, implementing and actioning strategy, measuring success and providing ongoing consultation to assist in meeting agreed targets, Daniel and his team are working with a variety of clients who include FARFETCH Group, Joseph, Pangaia, Dunhill and Fred Perry.
JF Why have you created a fashion minority report? What impact has this created to support creatives from BAME backgrounds?
DP When we talk about success in the fashion industry, we talk about this through white people being successful, we do not typically celebrate other diversities as much as we should. That for me was incredibly irksome. I could identify ten to fifteen people of colour as successful in the industry however, I was not seeing them present. What was initially supposed to be a podcast, resulted in an open letter, which has now turned into supporting different businesses, in term of creating inclusive workplace culture. So, this concept has grown from a very small idea, and something which I have tried to champion throughout my career ie: “Diversity” and creating marketing material and content, that is reflective of modern society. However, I did not feel I was doing enough. On the back of Black Lives Matter, I saw an opportunity, to enable more people from diverse backgrounds, to have more of a spotlight shone on them, to build up people already in the industry.
On the back of Black Lives Matter, I saw an opportunity, to enable more people from diverse backgrounds, to have more of a spotlight shone on them
Your point around the impact to support BAME creatives, of course, is hard to gauge or judge as this is down to personal perception. But I know that from the clients I have been working with and looking at black or ethnic minorities people within those companies, they have identified a change in the support I have been able to give. Especially when we look at people who already exist within companies, I do not want to be a case of getting new hires in a company, when, there are disgruntled people who already existed within a company. We need to support them and help them to grow, as it has been mentioned they do not feel as though they have the same opportunities for progression or being heard. My objective is to build infrastructure for support for people. Are we creating structural change within a company, so diverse voices particularly Black voices feel encouraged and empowered to grow within a company?
JF How did you compile this report?
DP: The internet is such a great resource, specifically social media. Instagram is a great medium for finding things out and for people telling their true stories. For me, I was trying to dig a little deeper, A nostalgic view centred around looking back to look forward. Identifying what been happening, what are the strategies and ways in which we need to work to create a more inclusive industry. I feel we have a lot of the tools and some of the understanding, which needs to be refined. This is what I am trying to do, by speaking to different people and listening to their lived experience, which informs me and my opinion on where we need to take things. I have the opportunity, to speak to numerous people in the industry for variable lengths of time, who have faced different aggressions or different successes, and even when those successes have happened, they may not lead to anything else.
It is about digging as deep down as possible, without being intrusive, to understand what people’s experiences have been. From those experiences, I build-out strategies to create change.
JF What advice can you provide to academics, who aim to use this report within the design and planning of course content, to leverage student employability within the fashion industry?
DP: A lot of people do not feel there are possibilities and options for them, as a starting point within the industry. Because they do not see people who look like them. I am trying to open up the conversation. The few stats within my report, are limited. The information is not out there. I’m holding up a magnifying glass to our industry. The Government may enforce companies with 250 employees or more, to record and document the gender pay gap but the racial or diversity split within companies, is neglected. There have been talks about reports they have conducted, but we are not seeing any measurable impact from that. I want to help people move from conversation towards action.
With McKinsey reporting on a potential 36% increase in creative and profitable efficacy for companies engaging diverse teams, fashion has a long way to go before it can override the outdated but pervasive notion that wealth and white privilege are key components for success in this sector.
We sell fashion students this wonderful idea of what it will be like to work within the industry. But we need to prepare them for what the industry is really like. Opportunities do not always land on our doorstep, we need to support young people as they embark on their career journey. We need to provide resources and tools to equip them as best as possible, the many different roles other than being a pure-play creative.
There are over 800,0000 people employed in the fashion industry not every one of those is a ‘creative.’ There are many other roles that fit within our industry, to make it what it is today. So it’s about providing them with resources and information, which encapsulates a realistic perspective on future trends and develop personal attributes, so they become the best person for the job. Or for a Job.
The change around societal issues is reflective of a generation who have strong opinions and values surrounding authenticity and transparency, however, those individuals are extremely quick to adapt to cancel culture. This is evident across the multitude of social media platforms.
JF How can industry stakeholders use this report to develop the recruitment process for BAME students and staff?
DP The recruitment process is an interesting topic. One thing I remember seeing as a young person is that you must have a degree to able to apply for a specific role. Not everyone goes through the process of having a degree or obtaining a degree as this is not always necessary for a particular role. However, with that said, it is pushing for slightly blind interview processes, but also making interview processes as streamlined as possible, so that people do not go off on a tangent with the questions they are being asked, which can allude to evasive questions, dependant on who the applicant is. I have walked into a meeting room and based on the way I have spoken to someone on the phone and my name is Daniel, they are not always expecting who turns up to walk into that room. I.e. a six-foot-one black man.
Looking at that process, and how this applicant is going to view the company is the first step. What are we doing to make this company seem approachable? What are we doing to make this company feel as though they are being inclusive and catering to employees from diverse backgrounds? That starts with the image and conversations which are driven via the recruitment platform. Also, where are communities going out to find new talent?
I am trying to breakdown nepotism. Yes we make recommendations based on who we know, but those we bring intend to be like us. Minimal diversity results, so I am trying to break it down and say, where are you going to seek that talent? Are you going to different media and resources? I am aware this may require more work, but by doing that companies acquire a diverse talent pool. What about the interview process? Are you providing opportunities for diverse recruits to understand what the community is like within the company? Which will help them to decide on cultural fit etc. It's not just you are interviewing that person, it’s also them interviewing you for compatibility. Cultural fit is not the right terminology. We need to be recruiting people who are going to bring something dynamic to teams or shake teams up. Those who apply innovation and critical thinking to enforce a more diverse team will be supporting a productivity and profit increase. Obtaining worldly perspectives from different lived experience who contribute to the conversation to create an inclusive society and brand objectives.
It is about digging as deep down as possible, without being intrusive, to understand what people’s experiences have been. From those experiences, I build-out strategies to create change.
My final point, Once you have that person in, it’s not a case of leaving them to it and hoping for the best, You still have to make sure diverse voices and diverse people, not just black and brown but when we take into consideration age, gender, religion and sex everyone is given a fair opportunity to exist as their authentic self. One thing which I am finding through a lot of conversation is that, so many People of Colour do not feel as though they can turn up to work as their authentic self. Whether that may be their hair, cultural dress or able to discuss what they have done at the weekend. Things like that which may seem incredibly simple can be stunting for a person’s development within a company. Because they can feel ostracised or othered through those simple actions. And of course, these things are not simple, they are components that contribute to being an individual, which should be celebrated.
Dominant cultures within companies and teams, can become oppressive. This makes some shrink into the background unable to embody their true self. Sharing weekend activities, bringing cultural food into the workplace without fear of comment; these are simple examples of overcoming workplace alienation. We need to breakdown the environment to truly reflect the word inclusion and allowing a sense of belonging.
JF What is the future for Fashion Minority Report?
DP A strong focus right now is mentoring. That is mentoring for emerging professionals, ie: people who are exploring a career in the industry and how we provide resources and contacts to leverage their employability within the industry, which is exciting. There is a programme I am launching in the next month if the timings all go well. Aside from that, it goes back to what I was saying before. How are we support diverse voices who already exist within companies? So right now, I am developing a mentoring programme for professional who feel they are stuck in junior positions and feel they need to feel empowered and encouraged to seek growth within their current role. Because one thing we do see, from stats and data is that a lot of Black and Brown people feel they must change the company to gain a higher position. I have certainly felt that. I have not been able to go up the food chain, or ladder within a company, and been stuck in a particular position for several years. I may be considered a well-liked member of the team, but there is something holding me back.
I think that empowering individuals, and seek that growth is one thing. But it’s also dealing with the teams of senior management and HR teams and helping them to understand we need to do better at promoting diverse identities into senior positions. So mentoring is a strong area for me. Also creating some physical or online events covid permitting. That will bring about different diverse voices.to inspire and encourage people again. It’s all about being a changemaker. We all can become change-makers. Diversity, equality and inclusion start with each of us; it not just the job of senior managers it’s the job of everyone.
Creating inclusive environments, is a priority focus when working with different companies not just in the UK. I am going to be working with a brand in Italy, and in that sense, every market and region has its nuances on how they need to develop and change. I am focusing on how I can support different markets right now.
Words Jason Forrest
FACE Members comment…
PM: Black and Brown people have never been able to look at themselves authentically. Not academically nor through society. This, historically has not been enabled through any social space. The authenticity of Black and Brown people has been limited to being authenticated by a white society. To be idiomatic has always been discouraged. Sometimes from within your own family and community. Spaces where Black people can express themselves AS themselves are vital.
CR: Interesting to mention Naomi Campbell - throughout her career often represented as having a much paler skin and/or blue eyes - Beyoncé has often been given the same treatment - presumably to bake both women appear more 'palatable' (in Daniel's words).
DC: Yes Daniel, I have a colleague and good friend who was not able to be herself with her choice of hair style. Which ultimately led to her leaving the fashion company because she could not face the racism any further. And fitting in was another challenge, with only one other black woman in head office.
SL: Often the responses of Black and Brown staff reflects the fear that personal information highlighting their race (termed status-confirming disclosure) reinforces the stereotypes that can undermine performance reviews and prevent progress toward leadership roles.
MH: The interview online with actor David Hare was particularly informative in that he articulated that in Britain racism for many ‘wasn’t an issue’ and certainly not one that needed to be talked about whereas racism in America was much more visible. I wonder how we are able to make this more visible rather than as a box that has been ticked. One organisation I work with just pointed to a ‘diversity statement’ as being their response and considered that as job done.
PM: White language more often is the expression of a state rather than an action. It usually relates to thoughts, emotions, relationships, senses, states of being and measurements. These not progressive actions (continuous)but they take on time expressions such as ‘Stand up’, Time’s up’ Now’ and ‘At the moment’. These tenses go nowhere and say nothing….
BO-A: It is key that education/employment is looked at as the demographics is continues to change. According to the Kings Fund Demography: future trends (Part of time to think Differently. The population is becoming more diverse. By 2031, ethnic populations will make up 15 per cent of the population in England and 37 per cent of the population in London. If so much of what we are highlighting is not actioned now, the future fall out is bleak.
DH: The problem I keep facing is the budget - don't have any budget to get any visiting lecturers or staff
JB: Review curriculum radically, use the PDR process…can this be taught by the resident faculty? Make space for academics from the Global Majority…
MR: Daniel made an important point when he said he was 'blind' to being one of the only Black people in his Fashion workspace at one point in time. I've heard a few people saying this. More recently I've heard lots of white people have said 'I don't see colour'. This is worrying and damaging, they SHOULD see colour and realise why it is important to have more Black and Brown academics in a working space.
TO: Self validation, Yes, Yes, this often is a challenging process. one might require a therapist to UNLEARN all the limiting beliefs and conditioning that we have internalised. I’m thankful to members for sharing lived experiences, around ongoing self construction. It’s inspirational! ;).
SL: White culture has euro-euthanised Black ideals.
FM: The few Black students we have in our fashion dept I have noticed do feel stressed and I feel might need extra time and understanding regarding their studies as well as extra pastoral care and support re their personal confidence due to maybe to not seeing more images of themselves in the cohort and staff.
JG: The majority of students that I teach are unlikely to illustrate their ideas on black figures or, if they do, they tend to be ‘palette-swapped’, that is the same features as their white figures but with a darker skin tone. Is it the job of the black lecturer to teach the skills to represent a multitude of experiences through art? I don’t think so!
EL: So key in teaching to show students work and discussion from non white, non european designers and creatives - from start ups to more well knowns, luckily I´ve been away from the UK long enough to have formed a hugely diverse network, and coming back working to challenge and break up this idea that Europe or even London is the only place you can ´make it´in fashion and creative industries. Everyone needs visible role models.
BO-A: Racism is structural and systemic on a grand scale, feeds into every aspect of our lives. But we must never under estimate the internal and external impact (mind, body and soul).